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Anarchy et Discordiae anarchydeath d est ruc tio nplaguep est ule nce fir e des truction coola mag ged don ane w worldorderex orc ism kil lmaimdes t royc haro nhade sty xthe f our hor seme nst ormfi erymaelstr omdemo nicjui bli lex d emo gorg ont ota lse cre cycryp toa narc hyc ybe rpu nkn etr aid i ngba dass mot her fuc ker tom eof k nowledgeand insigh taninf ofrea koun todeat andbeyond int ofu r the r rea lms oftru tha and rea lity,t heend evildeadbeyondgrav et rise an d walk a mong thel ivingtoha unttheliv inginapsyc hohel lbentmassa creo ofa f ren zie d blo odi eda ndf i ery mae lstr omo ofl ost sou lsd oom edf ore ver more andag aindoo mdeath des tru ctionp lagu eme rcy sku ll. who isi tth att urn sblo odi n tos pir ita nds pir iti int obl ood.Whoi sitthatca nmake yourlittle armie slight yours skies The Horror! The Horror! (c) 1993 A Stealth Research Publication A Division of United Netrunners Captain Hook (The Foundation/Dynamic Krax Australia/The Second Field/United Netrunners) and Evasif (SRI) and the team from Stealth Research Industries: (Hook) Mr. Flay Sepulcrast Evasif (The Master Forger) Chris (Stealth) Dameron Rob (Hendrix) Typeset and Published By: Evasif (SRI) With Contributions taken from the following Publications: (Or maybe NOT!) Anarchy 'n Explosives Anarchy Today alt.locksmith FAQ Art of Technology Digest Artificial Intelligence Log "Build Your Own Laser, Phaser, Ion Ray Gun & Other Working Space-age Projects by Robert Iannini (Tab Books Inc) -cDc- Cult of the Dead Cow -cDc- (A CULT Publication) Computer Down-Under Ground Digest Chaos Magazine CHiNA Magazine Computer Underground Digest Corrupt Programming International Jolly Roger's Cookbook P/HUN Magazine Digital Free Press Electrix Magazine Freedom Magzine Informatik - The Journal of Priviledged Information Improvised Munitions Handbook [TM 32-210] (US Dept. Army 1969) Phrack Inc. Phantasy Magazine The Journal of Irreproducible Results The Poor Man's James Bond by Kurt Saxon The LOD/H Technical Journal The Globe Trotter Magazine The Marine Corps Field Manual on Physical Security The N. A. R. C. Newsletter Pirate Magazine Phirst Amendment Magazine TAP Magazine Online The Syndicate Report United Phreakers Incorporated Magazine Activist Times Incorporated National Security Anarchists Magazine The New Fone Express Defense Data Network Security Bulletins (NOT!) Freaker's Bureau Incorporated Magazine K. C. A. H. Magazine Hackers Unlimited Magazine H-net Magazine Master Anarchists Giving Illicit Knowledge (MAGIK) Magazine Phreakers/Hackers/Anarchists Magazine Phuckin' Phield Phreaks Magazine (aka Outdoor Life Magazine) Rebels Riting Guild Magazine Today's Chemist With Contributions from the following hackers, phreakers, anarchists, militants, chemists, or just down right lamers: Gunzenbombz Pyro-Technologies (Authors of the Complete Terrorist) (A Division of CHAOS Industries) Dead Horse (for spreading the original) The Jolly Roger [eLItE L0ZeR!] (for plagiarising hundreds of text philes without giving credit to anyone but HIMSELF) Doctor Dissector (I love killer kracker!) ACID Acid Reign Alpine Kracker Anesthesia, (our protector) Apple Maniac BIOC 003 Baby Demon Bad Boy in Black Black Fire Black Manta Blue Max of Anarchist-R-Us Capt. Cloner Capt. Hack Chief O'Hara Circle Lord Darc Death Dark Overlord (Now this guy knows what he's talking about) Dead Addict Deceptor (Palm Beach BBS) Desert Pub'l Dial Tone Digital Destruction (604) Eights Elric of Imrryr Exilic Xyth Ford Prefect Franz Liszt Future Spy Garbled User George Hayduke Ghost Wind Gin Fizz/2600 Club!/TPM Grey Wolf. Halifax Heracles (B.O.U.) Hook Ingy (The Commanders) Jack The Ripper (OC) Joe Hunt Johnney Rotten (A Cryptic Criminals/Elite Justice Society Presentation) Kato Keith Blackwell Killer Kurt King Arthur Knight Hack Knight Lightning (Phrack _IS_ cool!) Kurt Saxon (Never found a full copy of your book..) Lazarus Long Lex Luthor Maelmord? Man-Tooth Marlboro Reds Megadeth Mr. "Budman" Zeek ("Hi-Tec" Terrorists/Portland Apple Corp.) Mr. Flay Sepulcrast NY Hacker (New York Underground Association) Ninja NYC/TPM Overkill Phucked Agent! Prof.Flay Sepulcrast of SRI (Who still can't play pool for shit) Professor Falken RIPPER Ragner Rocker Reverend L.E. Pirate Robert T Martinott SS-BADMAN (Kingdom of the Dead II) Saint Anarchy/D.O.A. Samhain Shadow Hawk 1 Signal Sustain Silicon Phreaker Sir Knight Slash (WCC) Slayer Sterling The 3rd Reich The Billionaire Boys Club The Blade (A Neon Knight Presentation) The Blitz The Butler The Byte Byter (Metal Communications) The Chemist The Cheshire Cat The DARK LORDS OF CHAOS The DETH VEGETABLE The FBI The FLYING HERMIT The Fighting Falcon The Flying Hermit (A Dead Cat Whisker Production) The GRAY MOUSER The Ghost The Gremlin (United Federation of Pirates) The Happy Hacker The High Lord Satan The Ice-Man The Leftist The LockSmith The Lockpic The Metallain The Misfits The Mortician The Necrophiliac & The Necrophobic The Neon Knights The Ninja Warrior The Paper Tiger The Pirates of Puget Sound The Prime Anarchist The Prisoner The Pyro The REFLEX The Rebel Warhead The Rocker (Metallibashers Inc.) The SCREAMER The Sentinel The Team at CERT, and SERT (NOT!) The Undead Warrior The Wave Walkon (Temple of the Un-Dead) X Calibur XTX-101 Warp 9 Zandar Zan Zaphod Beeblebrox (mpg) ^^^NIGHTWING^^^ el Pirata' (computer rat software) and Steve Wozniak even though he's a wimp! Greetings go to: Quarrel - Hmmmm.... Technopath - Chuckle Chuckle Zer0 - The name says it all =] Satan - SAtAn lOvEs yOu! Purpleman- See above! Rohan - Bring the notes! Rokstar - Devestation Phase One (Dead but not forgotten!) TriZap - You didn't tell me you wrote an article for Phrack... Jorrem Almighty (Malicious Damage) - Your magazine sucks, but hey.. =] Nosdivad - Bad luck, dude. Datalore - Ahh... remember the days.. Equinoxe - Why ? Crimson - Why not? and to the boards: Burning Crime Millenium Fuckings go out to: Dhrystone/Prof. Kraq "Bite the mattress" - Get a hair cut! Ratter "Bend over and I'll drive" - Beware of room service! The Paddle Pop Lion and the Hair Bear Bunch - Get a hair cut! If any article appearing in this publication was indeed written by you and fails to or incorrectly mentions your handle, either: (a) We got the file from some fucking lamer like the Jolly Roger who plagerized you! (b) Our copy of the file failed to credit you (corrupted file, source).. (c) Error on our part! (Nahh!) 0.0 PROLOGUE This work is the culmination of hundreds of authors (mostly anonymous) who have contributed articles relating to anarchy throughout the underground, either contributing to some 'zine or just posting text files. We at SRI (Stealth Research Incorporated) got pissed off one day when trying to remember where some fucking recipe was, and having to search through piles of half corrupted disks and heaps of paper, so we decided that we should organise some of the recipes in some decent order. Well, one thing lead to the next and I guess we must have been really bored because soon we ended up with something quite perverse. The book's style was based on the 'New Compleat [sic] Terrorist' by Gunzenbombz Pyro-Technologies because the author seemed to have a reasonable index although he couldn't spell for shit. The Compleat [sic] Terrorist was basically some pile of text files leeched from Ripco (which died in Operation Sundevil). The author (un-named) printed out two copies of that file (177K) which he gave to friends, but lost the original in a hard drive crash. I don't know what happened then, but somehow on August 8th at 1AM in some year (probably '90 or '91) he found a copy on some BBS somewhere and began 'The New Compleat [sic] Terrorist'. I (Hook) then basically got even anarchy file I could get my hands on and added it to this book, and that's where we are now. I'll keep adding to it as I get new files... I don't know how this will be done because we are also producing a PostScript version of this book. Some of the stuff I found, such as half the stuff that The Jolly Roger didn't rip off was pretty lame, but I included it anyway for the sake of completeness. If you don't think you can handle RDX, you can always go and make a chlorine bomb.. =] Anyway, have fun, and don't kill yourself too badly. 19.9.93 Anarchy et Discordiae Volume 1 (The Tome of Destruction) Fuck Yeah! Six Months Later Anarchy et Discordiae is due for typesetting by Evasif.. Ahhh I can hardly wait! 0.5 DISCLAIMER Sheesh. Why the fuck does everyone have a disclaimer when they write these files. What is their problem ? What are they afraid of ? Is some idiot going to blow his hand off and then take 'Captain Anarchy' to court ? I can see it now, "Captain Anarchy made me do it!". Do it. Go ahead. It's pretty funny how everything in this book can be derived from household ingredients, isn't it? Well, I guess I'd better say it now, I do not encourage you to (a) take this book too seriously. (b) trust any of the recipes (I haven't even tried all of them). (c) make anything in this book. Gee wow, did you know I have to say something like that to pass begin totally censored if I decide to publish ? But I guess, I can't really stop you if you do, not that I'd want to, either. Moral of the story: Never bother reading disclaimers, they all suck. Corrollary: You suck. Oh yeah, one more thing. Distribution. We're all for freedom of information and all that jazz, but use a little discretion in who you give a copy of this to. Like, avoid street kids, total lunatics or other social deviants who would go completely off the rails. Anarchy is cool when WE do it, not on the other end. We don't want the rest of the world getting as totally fucked up as the US, do we ? =] =] I'll probably change this fucking stupid disclaimer when I get the chance. (c) Version 1.0, 27th July 1993 Australia. All Rights Completely Fucked Up. ... have nuke, will travel ... ************** ** ** ** ** ** @@@ @@@ ** ** @ @ @ @ ** ** @@@ @@@ ** ** ** ** @ @ ** ** @ @ ** ** @@@@@@@@@@@@@@ ** ** ** ************** 1.1 Table of Contents ───────────────── 1.2 ....... Chemical Safety 2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS 2.01 ........ Black Powder 2.011 ........ Black Powder Compositions 2.02 ........ Pyrodex 2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder 2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder 2.05 ........ Flash Powder 2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate 2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS 2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY 2.21 ....... Chemical Descriptions 2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS 2.31 ........ Nitric Acid 2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid 2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate 2.331 ........ The REFLEX's Preparation 2.34 ........ Charcoal 2.35 ........ Chlorine Gas 2.36 ........ Sulphur 2.37 ........ Oxygen Gas 2.38 ........ Hydrogen Gas 2.39 ........ Hematite (Iron Oxide or Rust) 2.40 ........ Picric Acid (Also 3.38) 2.41 ........ Sodium Chlorate (Potassium Chlorate Replacement) 2.42 ........ Nitrous Oxide (SEE 7.6 - Laughing Gas) 2.43 ........ Iodine 3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES 3.01 ........ Explosives, a foreword from Today's Chemist 3.02 ........ Explosive Theory 3.03 ........ Relative Sensitivity, Power and Velocity Table of Explosives 3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES 3.11 ........ Ammonium Triiodide Crystals 3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate 3.121 ........ Additional Notes on Mercury Fulminate 3.122 ........ Lockpic/Blitz Method 1 3.123 ........ Lockpic/Blitz Method 2 3.124 ........ Method 3 3.125 ........ Method 4 3.126 ........ Method 5 3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine 3.131 ........ Heracle's Recipe 3.132 ........ King Arthur's Recipe 3.14 ........ Picrates 3.15 ........ PeroOxyacetone 3.151 ........ PeroOxyacetone, Zaphod Beeblebrox's Recipe 3.16 ........ Nitrogen Triiodide Crystals 3.161 ........ NI3, El Pirata's Recipe 3.162 ........ NI3, Zaphod Beeblebrox's Recipe 3.163 ........ NI3, Method 4 3.164 ........ Working Notes on NI3 3.165 ........ Comprehensive NI3 Recipe 3.17 ........ Phosphorus/Sodium Chlorate Mix 3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES 3.21 ........ Black Powder 3.211 ........ Black Powder, Granpa's Recipe 3.212 ........ Gun Powder, Deceptor's Recipe 3.213 ........ Notes on Gun Powder 3.214 ........ Processing Gun Powder 3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose 3.221 ........ Gun Cotton 3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures 3.24 ........ Perchlorates 3.25 ........ Bulk Powders 3.26 ........ French Ammonal 3.261 ........ Ammonal 3.27 ........ Red or White Powder Propellant 3.28 ........ Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder 3.29 ........ Gun Powder 3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES 3.31 ........ R.D.X. [Cyclotrimethylenetrinitramine] - (Cyclonite,Hexagon,T4) 3.311 ........ Additional Notes on RDX 3.312 ........ Composition B 3.313 ........ Composition C4 3.314 ........ Pentolite 3.315 ........ Jack the Rippers (CIA Snarfed) RDX Recipe 3.32 ........ T.N.T. 3.321 ........ Preparation of TNT 3.322 ........ The Screamer's Preparation of TNT 3.323 ........ Another Preparation of TNT 3.33 ........ DYNAMITE 3.331 ........ Additional Notes on Dynamite 3.332 ........ Guhr Dynamite 3.333 ........ Extra-Dynamite 3.334 ........ Table Of Dynamite Formulae 3.335 ........ Table Of More Dynamite Formulae 3.336 ........ Master Dynamite Formulae 3.337 ........ American Dynamite 3.338 ........ "Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite (c)1896" 3.339 ........ King Arthur's Table of Dynamite 3.34 ........ OTHER 3.341 ........ Ammonium Nitrate 3.342 ........ ANFOS 3.343 ........ Potassium Chlorate 3.344 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives 3.345 ........ Picric Acid (Also 2.40) 3.346 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D) 3.347 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride 3.348 ........ Lead Azide 3.3481 ........ Lead Azide Booby Trap 3.349 ........ Di-NitroNapthalene 3.350 ........ PETN - Pentaerythrite Tetranitrate - (penta, niperyth, penthrit) 3.351 ........ Amatol 3.352 ........ Tetrytol 3.353 ........ Fertiliser/Liquid Hydrazine Explosive 3.354 ........ Acetone/Peroxide Explosive 3.46 ........ FILLER EXPLOSIVES 3.461 ........ Improvised Plastic Explosive Filler 3.462 ........ Quick Filler Explosive 3.463 ........ Plastic Explosive Filler II 3.47 ........ ROCKET FUELS 3.471 ........ Nitromethane Formulae (Rocket Fuel) 3.472 ........ Nitromethane "Solid" Explosive (Flame Fuel) 3.473 ........ ASTROLITE 3.4731 ........ Astrolite G 3.4732 ........ Astrolite A/A-1-5 3.474 ........ Common Rocket Fuel 3.475 ........ Rocket Fuel 2 3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" or EXPLOSIVE WEAPONS 3.51 ........ Thermite 3.511 ........ Notes on Thermite 3.512 ........ Additional Notes on Thermite 3.513 ........ Thermite, X Calibur's Recipe 3.514 ........ More Thermite 3.515 ........ Thermite Applications 3.520 ....... Bottled Gas Explosives 3.521 ....... Spray Bottle Flamethrower 3.5211 ....... Spray Bottle Flamethrower II 3.522 ....... Blast Oil 3.523 ....... Napalm 3.5231 ....... Napalm, Doctor Dissector's Recipe 3.5232 ....... Napalm, Lex Luthor's Recipe 3.524 ....... Incendiary Brick 3.525 ....... Fire Fudge 3.526 ....... Flammability of Gases 3.527 ....... Incendiary Mixture 3.528 ....... A Standard Plastic Explosive 3.529 ....... Snowball 3.530 ....... Overnight Aluminium Killer 3.531 ....... Chemically Ignited Explosives 3.532 ....... Unstable Explosive 3.533 ....... Medium Explosive 3.534 ....... Plastic Explosive 3.535 ....... Grain Elevator Explosion 3.536 ....... Hot Stuff Aluminium Killer 3.537 ....... Firelighter 3.538 ....... GELLED FLAME FUELS 3.5381 ....... Lye Systems 3.5382 ....... Lye-Alcohol Systems 3.5383 ....... Soap-Alcohol Systems 3.5384 ....... Egg White Systems 3.5385 ....... Wax Systems 3.539 ....... HTH/Brake Fluid Incendiary 3.540 ....... Percussion Explosives 3.541 ....... Moulded Brick that Burns 3.542 ....... Chlorate/Sugar Mix 3.543 ....... Potassium Permanganate/Sugar Mix 3.544 ....... Super Bottle Rockets 3.6 ....... IMPROVISED OR SUPERMARKET EXPLOSIVES 3.61 ........ Explosive from match heads 3.62 ........ Quick formula for high explosive 3.63 ........ Gunpowder replacements (for the anarchist in a jam) 3.64 ........ Improvised Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze 3.65 ........ Improvised Plastique Explosive from Aspirin 3.66 ........ Improvised Plastique Explosive from Bleach 3.67 ........ Improvised Plastique From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound 3.68 ........ Chlorate Mixtures 3.69 ........ Improvised Napalm 3.7 ....... ATOMIC and NUCLEAR WEAPONS 3.71 ....... Construction Project: Atomic Bomb 3.81 ....... The History of the Atomic Bomb 3.82 ....... Nuclear Fission/Nuclear Fusion 3.83 ....... The Mechanism of The Bomb 3.84 ....... The Diagram of the Atomic Bomb 4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES 4.1 ....... SAFETY 4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES 4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition 4.211 ........ Sulphured Wick Fuse 4.212 ........ Blackmatch Fuse 4.213 ........ Fuse Paper 4.214 ........ Quick Wicks (when you're in a jam) 4.215 ........ Slow Burning Fuse (2" per minute) 4.216 ........ Fast Burning Fuse (40" per minute) 4.217 ........ Blackmatch and Quickmatch Fuses 4.218 ........ Commercial Safety Fuses 4.219 ........ Fire Cracker Fuse 4.22 ........ Impact Ignition 4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition 4.231 ........ Flashbulb Electric Fuse 4.232 ........ Electric Ignition Fuse 4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition 4.241 ........ Mercury Switches 4.242 ........ Tripwire Switches 4.243 ........ Radio Control Detonators 4.244 ........ Clothespin Switch 4.245 ........ Flexible Plate Switch 4.25 ........ Detonators 4.251 ........ Mini Compound Detonators 4.26 ........ Igniters 4.261 ........ Sulphur and Aluminium Igniter 4.262 ........ Potassium Chlorate and Sugar Igniter 4.3 ....... DELAYS 4.31 ........ Fuse Delays 4.32 ........ Timer Delays 4.33 ........ Chemical Delays 4.331 ........ Chemical Time Delay Fuses 4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS 4.41 ........ Paper Containers 4.42 ........ Metal Containers 4.43 ........ Glass Containers 4.44 ........ Plastic Containers 4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES 4.51 ........ Shaped Charges 4.52 ........ Tube Explosives 4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions 4.54 ........ Landmines 4.541 ....... More Landmines 4.55 ........ Mini Claymore Mine 4.6 ....... BOMBS 4.61 ....... DISGUISED BOMBS 4.611 ....... Lightbulb Bombs 4.6112 ....... Lightbulb Bomb, Mojo/Smith Method 4.6113 ....... Lightbulb Bomb, Shadowhawk Method 4.6114 ....... Napalm Lightbulb Bomb 4.612 ....... Book Bombs 4.613 ....... Phone Bombs 4.614 ....... The Fiery Explosive Pen 4.615 ....... Letter Bomb (Thermite-Based) 4.616 ....... Tennis Ball Bomb 4.620 ...... Carbide Bomb 4.621 ...... Mercury Battery Bomb 4.622 ...... Milk Carton Bomb 4.623 ...... MacGyver Fertiliser Bomb 4.624 ...... Fire Bomb 4.625 ...... Chlorox-Draino Bomb 4.626 ...... Dry Ice Bombs 4.627 ...... Electric Break-Contacts Bomb 4.628 ...... Propane/Butane Bomb 4.629 ...... Peanut Butter Bomb 4.630 ...... The BIC (Lighter) Bomb 4.631 ...... The Gerbil Feed Bomb 4.632 ...... The SAFEr Carbide Bomb 4.633 ...... "Deadman's Switch" Soda Can Bomb 4.634 ...... Chlorine Bombs 4.635 ...... LN2, Liquid Nitrogen Bomb 4.636 ...... Paper Bomb 4.637 ...... The Bulb Bomb (Really Cool) 4.638 ...... Aceltylene Balloon Bomb 4.639 ...... Bolt Bomb 4.640 ...... Shotgun Shell Bomb 4.641 ...... Flour Bombs (Flammable!) 4.642 ...... Chemical Time-Delayed Bomb 4.643 ...... Match Head Bomb 4.644 ...... Fire Bombs 4.645 ...... Letter Box Bomb (aka Standard Chlorine Bomb) 4.646 ...... Tennis Ball Bomb 4.647 ...... Paint Bombs 4.648 ...... CO2 Bomb 4.649 ...... Solidox Bomb 4.650 ...... Radio Bomb 4.651 ...... Poison Gas Bomb 4.652 ...... The Destructor 4.7 ....... PIPE BOMBS 4.71 ........ Standard Pipe Bombs 4.72 ........ Vinegar/Baking Soda Pipe Bomb 4.73 ........ Acid/Parafin Pipe Bomb 4.74 ........ Soft Drink Can Bomb 4.75 ........ Real Pipe Bomb 4.76 ........ Canister Pipe Bomb 4.77 ........ Generic Pipe Bomb 4.78 ........ Minature Pipe Bomb 4.79 ........ Powerful Pipe Bomb 4.8 ....... GRENADES 4.81 ........ Molotov Cocktails 4.811 ........ Molotov Cocktail, GaRbLeD uSeR's Recipe 4.812 ........ Incediary Time Delayed Molotov Cocktail 4.82 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle 4.821 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle, El Pirata's Recipe 4.83 ........ Nail Grenade 4.84 ........ Expedient Grenade 4.85 ........ Napalm Grenade 4.86 ........ Force Grenade 4.87 ........ Death Grenade 4.88 ........ Fire Grenade 4.89 ........ Death Grenade II 4.90 ........ Force Grenade II 4.91 ........ Small Grenade 4.92 ........ Carbide Grenade 4.93 ........ Shotgun Shell Impact Grenade 4.94 ........ Jack Daniels Fire Bottle 5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS 5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE) 5.11 ........ BLOWGUNS 5.111 ........ Blowgun Ammunition 5.112 ........ Blowgun and Ammunition 5.113 ........ How to make Blowgun Darts 5.12 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition 5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition 5.14 ........ Exploding Arrows 5.15 ........ Pocket Rockets 5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS) 5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition 5.22 ........ Shotguns 5.23 ........ Exploding Bullets 5.24 ........ Pipe or Zip Guns 5.25 ........ Low Signature Systems (Silencers) 5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS) 5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition 5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition 6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS 6.1 ....... ROCKETS 6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb 6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb 6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs 6.14 ........ Rocket Fuels 6.15 ........ Rocket Tubes and YOU! 6.16 ........ Portable Grenade Launcher 6.2 ........ CANNONS 6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon 6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon 6.23 ........ Tennis Ball Cannon 6.24 ........ Home Brew Blast Cannon 7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA AND CHEMICAL ERRATA 7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs 7.11 ......... Smoke Bomb, 4lbs per City Block recipe 7.12 ......... Sulphur Smoke/Stink Bomb 7.13 ......... Zinc/Sulphur Smoke 7.14 ......... Chlorine/Trupentine Smoke 7.15 ......... Pool Chlorine Smoke 7.16 ......... Smoke Bomb, Alpine Kracker's recipe 7.17 ......... Sugar/Potassium Nitrate Smoke Bomb 7.2 ......... Coloured Flames 7.3 ......... Tear Gas 7.31 ......... 'Good Time' Tear Gas 7.32 ......... Tear Gas II 7.4 ......... FIREWORKS 7.401 ........ Casings and Glues 7.402 ........ Rolling Casings 7.403 ........ Use of Chlorates 7.41 ......... Firecrackers 7.411 ......... The "GIANT" class firecracker 7.42 ......... Skyrockets 7.43 ......... Roman Candles 7.44 ......... Serpents 7.45 ......... Smokes 7.46 ......... Whistling Fireworks 7.47 ......... Coloured Flames 7.48 ......... Basic Coloured Fireworks 7.49 ......... Stars, Flares and Colour Mixtures 7.5 .......... OTHER 7.51 ......... Mace Substitute 7.52 ......... Laughing Gas 7.521 ......... Laughing Gas II 7.53 ......... Green Goddess 7.54 ......... Nitrate Compound 7.55 ......... BIC Ballistics 7.56 ......... Cherry Bomb 7.57 ......... How to make a m80 Factory! 7.58 ......... Flash Powder 7.59 ......... Touch Paper 7.60 ......... Self Igniting Mixtures 7.61 ......... Salutes 8.0 ....... LOCK PICKING 8.01 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks 8.02 ........ More Techniques for Making and Using Lockpicks 8.03 ........ The Construction and Use of Various Lockpicks 8.04 ........ El Cheapo Zig Zag Lockpick 8.05 ........ alt.locksmith FAQ 8.06 ........ Lock Picking 8.07 ........ The Art of Lockpicking 8.10 ........ COMBINATION LOCKS 8.11 ......... Finding the Combination on Master Locks 8.12 ......... Picking Combination Locks 8.15 ........ BREAKING and ENTERING 8.151 ........ B 'n E Check List 8.2 ........ LOCKS and PHYSICAL SECURITY by Sterling 8.21 ......... Key Operated Locks 8.211 ......... Latches 8.212 ......... The Warded Lock 8.213 ......... The Lever Lock 8.214 ......... The Wafer (Disc) Tumbler Lock 8.215 ......... The Pin Tumbler Lock 8.216 ......... Tubular Cylinder Locks 8.22 ......... Lockpicking Tools 8.221 ......... The Basic Picks 8.222 ......... Making Your Own Picks 8.223 ......... Purchasing Picks 8.23 ......... Attitude and Tips for Success 8.24 ......... Other Security Devices 8.241 ......... Combination Locks 8.242 ......... Magnetic Locks 8.243 ......... Simplex Locks 8.244 ......... Automotive Protection Systems 8.245 ......... The Marlock System 8.246 ......... VingCard Locks 8.247 ......... Electronic Hotel Card Locks 8.248 ......... Alarm Systems 9.0 ....... ELECTRONICS PROJECTS 9.10 ........ RADIO 9.11 ........ FM wireless Bug 9.12 ........ Lunchbox Transmitter 9.13 ........ Lunchbox Receiver 9.14 ........ The Infinity Transmitter 9.20 ........ WEAPONS 9.21 ......... The StunGun: Offensive and Defensive Strategies & Modifications 9.22 ......... The ShockRod 9.30 ........ TELEPHONE 9.31 ......... Telephone Operated Tape Recorder 9.40 ........ MISCELLANEOUS 9.41 ......... Electronic Torch 9.42 ......... Ultra-Quick Disk/VCR Trasher 9.43 ......... Garage Door Opener 10.0 ...... FUN 10.1 ....... Fun Things to do with Cars 10.11 ....... Basic Tactics of Car Destruction 10.12 ....... How to Blow Up a Car, A Diffent Way 10.13 ....... Car Thrashing 10.14 ....... Blowing Up a Car 10.15 ....... CAR MODIFICATIONS 10.151 ....... Napalm Petrol Tank 10.152 ....... Exhaust Pipe Ooze 10.153 ....... Draino Pillbox 10.154 ....... Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower 10.155 ....... Installing a Smoke Screen 10.16 ....... The Modern Speeder's Guide to Radar and the Police 10.17 ....... The Radar Guidebook 10.18 ....... Fun Things to do to Send a Car to Hell 10.19 ....... Highway Radar Jamming 10.21 ....... Fun Things to do with Pools 10.22 ....... Fun Things to do with Libraries 10.23 ....... Fun Things to do at K-Mart 10.24 ....... Fun Things to do with Alarms 10.25 ....... Fun Things to do at School 10.26 ....... Fun Things to do with Dry Ice 10.27 ....... Fun Things to do on the Last Day of School 10.28 ....... Fun Things to do to disrupt School Assemblies 10.29 ....... Fun Things to do with Traffic Lights 10.30 ....... How to Steal a Dumpster 10.31 ....... How to Lock Someone in Their Own House! 10.32 ....... Fun Things to do with a BIC Lighter 10.33 ....... Fun Things to do in Rural Towns 10.34 ....... How to Fuck up the World 10.35 ....... Fun Things to do in the Vast Malls of Surburbia 10.36 ....... Fun Things to do at McDonalds 10.37 ....... Fun Things to do at School II (Do you hate school ?) 10.38 ....... Fun Things to do with Phones 10.39 ....... Fun Things to do at Airports 10.40 ....... Fun Things to do with Animals 11.0 ...... PEOPLE SKILLS 11.1 ....... POISON 11.11 ....... Ninja Recipe 11.12 ....... Nicotine Sulfate 11.13 ....... Poison Pen 11.2 ....... ASSASINATION 11.21 ....... Getting others to Commit Suicide 11.22 ....... Some Interesting Ways to Kill a Friend (Or Enemy) 11.23 ....... Born to Kill - The Art of Assassination (Part I) 11.24 ....... Assasination Made Easy 11.25 ....... The Eleven Commandments of Revenge 11.3 ....... REVENGE 11.31 ....... Revenge: Don't get mad - Get even 11.32 ....... How to get Revenge on Someone 11.4 ....... CREATING A NEW IDENTITY 11.41 ....... False ID 11.42 ....... How to Create a New Identity 11.5 ....... SURVEILLANCE AND INVESTIGATION 11.51 ....... Investigating People 11.52 ....... The State of Surveillance (Telephone/Audio/Video Bugging) 11.6 ....... COMBAT TECHNIQUES 11.61 ....... Basic Hand to Hand Combat Techniques 11.62 ....... Jungle Survival 11.7 ....... MISCELLANEOUS ANARCHY 11.71 ....... Basic Anarchy 11.72 ....... Hypnotism 11.73 ....... Operation FuCkUp! 12.0 ...... FRAUD 12.1 ....... Ripping off Change Machines 12.2 ....... How to Counterfeit 12.3 ....... How to Rip Off Payphones 12.4 ....... Making Vending Machine Keys Appendix A: LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION Appendix B: CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS Appendix C: USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY 1.2 !!!!!! Safety With Chemicals !!!!!! Author: Anesthesia, (our protector) Something that really bothers me is listening to someone that plays with chemicals and doesn't have a clue as to what they are doing. I've been flashed several times myself as well as burned my hair several times. Chemicals are dangerous things if you don't know what they do! [Even if you do - they still are! - Daiv] I would like to offer some help for those who wish to experiment but are unsure of their ability or don't know where to start. Since most people reading this text file also read other text files, that makes me think this is where they would like to learn these things. Always remember that anyone can put one of these out, and just because someone puts out a file, does NOT mean they know what they are doing. Your library is your best friend in this case! Before trying any experiment, research the items involved to assure that the people involved didn't leave anything out. (i.e., the fact that mixing the dry, red phosphorous, dry sulphur, and dry potassium chlorate will cause it to immediately explode, but when moist, it is safe to mix.) For those of you lucky enough to still be in high school, take a chemistry class. (This goes for those interested parties in college as well!) [Lotta exclaims there, Anesthesia - Daiv] You will enjoy it and something you learn there may just save you life and/or limbs later. I've also found it's one of the best ways to obtain some hard to find ingredients. Always be sure to read the instructions completely and assure you have the correct items on hand to complete the project in one shot. Some recipes won't wait for you to find the appropriate items. Also, never substitute something 'close' in a project unless it is specifically listed as a substitute. [A guy I know, Felo De Se (FDS), once used a smoke bomb recipe and ended up torching his face and kitchen, because he used ground rocket cells in place of potassium nitrate (aka saltpeter). - Daiv] There are ten important rules for chemistry safety that should always be followed. These are: 1. Never store chemicals for extended periods. 2. Never store chemical combinations for any length of time. 3. Work in a cool, well-ventilated area. 4. Keep sources of heat and electricity away from the work area. 5. Keep the number of people in the work area to a minimum. 6. Keep materials far apart. 7. Use a respirator while working. 8. Wear safety goggles. 9. Wear as much protective, rubber clothing as possible. 10. Have appropriate fire-fighting equipment available and large volumes of water. [Ed- Futhermore here are some precautions to LIVE by: ] Here is a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them. Read 'em and MEMORIZE 'em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of general rules that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW about the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly before starting anything. Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature, unstable, and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction. A clear understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the handling of ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are to be avoided. Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the following: 1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.) 2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of water before weighing the next ingredient. 3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment. 4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding another ingredient. 5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform. In all cases, point the open end of the container away from yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid sparks or static. Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time. 6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the contents down. 7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous, they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably locked away. 8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS. 9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES. Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure lenses and frames are not flammable. 10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there. They may cause serious illnesses later on in life. 11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals. 12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron. 13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system. 14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working. 15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode dust floating in the air. 16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one. 17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher, hose, etc.) 18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can. This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again, please do not use metal in any circumstance. 19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using. Some information will be included in each file, but look for whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff. 20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE. 21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload or reuse any dud. 22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are doing and leave until it settles. 23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything. 24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates, Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't drop them, or even handle them roughly. These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at one example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who played the good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special effects got out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really messed up by the green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who played the Tin Man got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to color his face. The actor we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The point is, these chemicals were being used under the direction of people a lot more knowlegable of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents still happened. Don't take this stuff lightly. 1.3 Introduction to Home Explosive Manufacture Author: Franz Liszt From: P/HUN Issue #4, Volume 2: Phile 5 of 11 Feb. 20, 1989 Basically: - Learn Chemistry, at school, uni, etc. - NEVER trust any recipe. Only consider reputable texts such as "The Poor Man's James Bond I & II", the "CIA Black Books", and army field manuals. I also ran across some new books called "Kitchen Improvised Explosives", which can be had from a radical book company called LOOMPANICS UNLIMITED They are also a very good source for information but the procedures outlined require more lab apparatus. If you know a little about chemistry, get the book "The Chemistry of Powder and Explosives" by Tenny L. Davis. EXPLOSIVE TYPES Basically, there are two types - low and high. The low explosives are chemical compounds such as black powder, flash powder, match head powder, etc. These compounds do not necessarily explode but have more of a burning characteristic. They will propagate into an explosion when confined in a solid container such as a "pipe-bomb" so the gases they produce can expand forcefully instead of burning away in the open air. Black powder for instance detonates at about 300 meters per second, which roughly means if you make a "train" or line of it 300 meters long, and detonate it with a blasting cap at one end of the train, the chain reaction and decomposition of the whole train will take one second. And black powder releases about 12000 PSI when confined in nominal 2" water pipe with a wall thickness of 1/8" and detonated with a No. 8 blasting cap (this is a standard size blasting cap that coal miners and the military uses). Notice I said that it must be detonated. You cannot just stick a wick in the pipe and light it because more that likely it will only burn and make a big fire. I will talk more about detonation later. 2,4,6-Trinitrotoluene (TNT) detonates at about 7400 meters per second when cast loaded into a container. TNT is a high explosive and its subsequential confinement in a container is not as important as with low explosives. High explosives are chemical compounds that will explode regardless of containment. You could lay a big pile of TNT on the ground, lay a blasting cap on top of it, light the wick, and the whole mess will still explode. High explosives undergo a chemical reaction of decomposition in less that a millionth of a second. All of the energy is released instantaneously. Low explosives, such as black powder have more of a burning characteristic. High explosives not only detonate much quicker, but also release more energy. TNT releases about 4.24 million PSI and the military explosive C-4 releases about 5.7 million PSI and detonates at 8100 meters per second! DETONATION Most high explosives are not capable of detonating without being set off or initiated with another explosion. This is done with the help of those neat little goodies called blasting caps. They contain medium to high explosives also, but their chemical composition(s) are unstable and will detonate when fire or spark is introduced to them. You may ask then why not just use blasting cap explosive instead of regular high explosives. Well, blasting cap materials are VERY sensitive to shock, friction, etc. and are also not as efficient as regular high explosives. Anyway, the blasting cap is usually placed in the high explosive in a well dug in the high explosive. An example would be like this in a pipe bomb: _______ Blasting cap / !-- * --! ! * ! ! * ! ! !_____ Pipe bomb ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !-------! (please excuse the ASCII drawing) When the cap is detonated, the explosive wave it generates is directed downward and detonates the high explosive in a "chain reaction". This is why the bottom of the explosive container should be placed on the target. The peak of the propagated explosive wave will be at the bottom of the explosive charge... At any rate, I do not suggest that one attempts to manufacture blasting caps without knowledge in explosive handling safety and also the proper laboratory procedures when making the blasting cap explosive itself. I have made over 300 blasting caps without an accident. I also take very careful precautions before assembling the caps and I have a properly equipped laboratory to synthesize the explosive material. I always work in a controlled environment with accurate measuring equipment for any explosive experiment I partake in. It is necessary to work under a lab fume hood to vent any toxic gases produced during experiments. It is also a good idea to ground yourself and your work area so static electricity doesn't wreak havoc and blow your chemical up in your face. IT IS GOSPEL TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS WHEN DOING ANY EXPERIMENT. ESPECIALLY WITH EXPLOSIVES. Outline your explosive production procedure before proceeding with any experiment. Refer to literature at your local library concerning blasting cap mfg. before you attempt to make them. The book I mentioned "The Chemistry of Powder and Explosives" covers the subject very well. There are also some good books available from Paladin Press on explosive manufacture and the blasting cap manufacture. It is possible to create blasting caps in a "kitchen" type environment, but I do not recommend it because of the dangers involved when making the explosive components. Many of the starting materials are corrosive and toxic. Blasting cap explosives are also VERY sensitive. More so than nitroglycerine in some cases. For instance, Lead azide, the most popular blasting cap explosive today, when synthesized improperly, can grow into crystals in the starting agent solution and spontaneously explode just because of improper stirring and/or cooling. Very easy mistake to do. Mercury fulminate, one of the cheapest and easiest to synthesize, produces toxic gases when synthesizing. When the finished product is dry, it is sensitive to a 2cm drop of a 5 lb. weight. THAT IS SENSITIVE! ALTERNATIVE: After all of this negative talk of blasting caps leaves much to be desired. But there is an alternative to using blasting caps if one has access to firecrackers such as M-80's, M-100's, M-200's, cherry bombs, Maroons, etc. These little bombs themselves are sufficient enough to detonate many high explosives. All of the "nitro" compounds will detonate with one of these firecrackers. Their use would be the same as the blasting cap - inserted in a little "well" made in the explosive charge, sealing off, and their fuse ignited accordingly. MAIN EXPLOSIVE CHARGE This is the big working explosive. The one that does the big damage. It should be handled with the same precautions as blasting caps, but in many cases, can be as safe as handling fertilizer. Some examples of common high explosives are ditching dynamite, gelatin dynamite, ANFO (ammonium nitrate fertilizer/fuel oil), TNT, PETN, RDX, military plastics, and even smokeless powder. These explosives are easily made in some cases, and dangerous at the same time. Since it is beyond the scope of this article, I must refer everybody to your local library, the books I have mentioned, or most of the "unusual" book publishers. Just do research in all possible material before grabbing a book and running out, buying the chemicals, and throwing stuff together. Get yourself a few of the "black-books", the "Poor Man's James Bond volumes", etc. and compare them with each other. Don't trust any unheard of publishers or books. It goes the same for the main charge; if one doesn't have access to the necessary chemicals, one can improvise. For instance the smokeless powders available from gunsmith's and reloading shops contain high- explosives such as nitrocellulose and nitroglycerine. They are called double based propellants. An example is made by Hercules Powder co. called "Bullseye" pistol propellant. It contains: 48% Nitroglycerine 50% Nitrocellulose 2% Flash suppressants, stabilizers, etc. It will detonate at about 7200 meters/sec. when firmly packed in 2 inch wide, schedule 40 hardened steel pipe. It detonates with 2,000,000 PSI also. This should suffice for many operations. I myself placed 1 1/2 pounds of the powder in a three pound coffee can and detonated it with an M-80 firecracker and it left a ditch in hard packed clay-soil about 2 feet deep and 3 feet wide! It was simply placed on the ground with the bottom of the can down. The blast was plainly heard indoors 1 mile away! Please if you attempt such a blast, make sure you give yourself ample time to get at least 300 yards away and don't detonate it near any buildings within 50-75 yards because the air-blast will possibly crack their windows. I usually use a lit cigarette placed on the fuse of the cap or firecracker. This will give you about 10 min. delay depending on the temperature and wind conditions. Packing the cigarette will give a longer delay. Another good explosive, if you prefer a liquid explosive is a mixture of Nitromethane and amine based compounds such as aniline, ethylenediamine, and for anyone that can't obtain the above chemicals, regular household ammonia will work as long as it is the clear non-detergent brand. The Nitromethane can be had from any "speed-shop" or race car parts supplier. It usually runs about $20 to $30 bucks a gallon. Simply mix the two liquids: 96% nitromethane and 4% ammonia (by weight). This explosive has the disadvantage of being somewhat insensitive. You need at least a No. 8 blasting cap to detonate it. It only need be confined in any kind of capped bottle and the blasting cap inserted in the neck. The blasting cap should be dipped in wax before immersion in the liquid explosive. Some Nitromethane manufactures add a indicator dye that turns purple when the liquid becomes dangerously explosive. So, when you mix your ammonia with the Nitromethane and the solution turns purple, you know that you have done well! OBTAINING CHEMICALS AND LAB WARE Getting your chemicals and lab ware can present a problem in some cases. In order to order laboratory chemicals, one must be a company, or try to prove that you are a company. Most suppliers don't like to sell to individuals in fear of clandestine drug and explosive manufacture. Those same companies also can be fooled easily with homemade letterhead also. For those of you with laser printers, the sky is the limit. If you don't have a laser printer, you should visit your local print shop. First, simply call the chemical companies and request for a catalog. You must get on the phone and say something on the order of: "Hello...this is C.B.G. Water Treatment Corp., may I speak to sales please? I would like to order your most recent catalog..." When you get catalogs from different companies, compare their prices and shipping charges. Make sure you don't order a set of chemicals where it is obvious you are making something you don't want them to know you are making. A suspicious order would be Nitric & Sulfuric acid and glycerine. This would be obvious that you are going to produce nitro- glycerine. Spread out your orders and orders between companies. Also be careful of watched chemicals. The drug enforcement agency watches certain orders for certain chemicals. They usually say something on the order of under the listing of the chemical entry in the catalog "only sold to established institutions." It just so happens that certain explosive synthesis requires the chemicals as some illicit drug production. Go to your local library in the reference section. Get the THOMAS REGISTER It is a set of books that list addresses of industrial suppliers. Look under chemicals for addresses. I do know of one company called Emerald City Chemical in Washington. They only require that you be at least 18 years of age. No letterhead necessary. I suggest staying away from Fisher Scientific, Seargent Welch, Sigma & Aldrich Chemical companies because they are either expensive, only sell to schools, or watch for illegal or suspicious chemical orders. I noticed that a lot of you phreaks out there live in New York; so stay away from City Chemical Co. I was informed that they closely watch their customers also. Don't make some letterhead for Jo Blow's Sewing Machine Repair and order complicated chemicals like 2,3,7,8-tetrachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin, bis-2- ethylhexy-diadipate, 3,4-diaminofurazain, or pharmecitucal type chemicals or any kind of chemical that looks like a foreign language. It looks VERY suspicious and your address will be forwarded to your local FBI or DEA office pronto. Nowadays you really got to watch what you order thanks to our bleeding heart liberals worrying about kids blowing their hands off trying to make firecrackers, or folks making controlled drugs in their basements. Also keep in mind that if you do decide to make yourself some bombs, just remember NOT TO TELL ANYONE! If you tell someone, that is just the added risk of getting caught because your "buddie" was a stool pigeon. BELIEVE ME - chances are if you tell someone, others will find out from gossip and you will be the alias "mad bomber" of your town. If someone happens to see any lab equipment or if your neighbors smell any strange chemical smells around your home, they might even think you are making drugs, so be careful. If you tell your friends of your activities, don't be surprised if you see a gunmetal grey Dodge Diplomat with a dozen antennas protruding from it sitting across the street with a guy in it watching your house with a spotting scope... DO NOT SELL explosives to ANYONE without a licence. If they get caught, the feds will plea-bargan with them and find out where they got the bombs and of course your buddie will tell them so he gets a reduced sentence. They WILL get a search warrant with no problem and proceed to ransack your premises. I know of a person that was in a similar situation. He didn't have any explosives in his house, but they seized his chemicals because of the complaint filed. Subsequently, the feds kept up pretty good surveillance on him for quite a while. 2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and a pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something about the non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder. 2.01 BLACK POWDER Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are listed below: GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN ───── ────────── ────────────── F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone can own black powder firearms in America. 2.011 Black Powders and their Compositions Author: Doctor Dissector From: Anarchy 'n Explosives No.1 (Vol 5) Black powders burn either quickly or very slowly depending on the composition of such a mixture; however, these powders produce smoke, often great amounts, and is most useful in applications where smoke is no object. It is the best for communicating fire and for producing a quick, hot flame. Black powder is used in both propellant charges for shrapnel shells, in saluting and blank fire charges, as the bursting charge of practice shells and bombs, as a propelling charge in certain pyrotechnic pieces, and, either with or without the admixture of other substances which modify the rate of burning, in the time-train rings and in other parts of fuses. Below is a list of black powders and their compositions. (Brown) Name Saltpeter Charcoal Sulfur England........................ 79 (18) 3 England........................ 77.4 (17.6) 5 Germany........................ 78 (19) 3 Germany........................ 80 (20) - France......................... 78 (19) 3 Forte.......................... 72 15 13 | Blasting Lente.......................... 40 30 30 |- Black Ordinaire...................... 62 18 20 | Powders 2.02 PYRODEX Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried. 2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube lengthwise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, the grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder. 2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants is not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S. 2.05 FLASH POWDER Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores. 2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers. 2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college. Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and most of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wears a dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone asks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking for the polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department other than the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various labs and departments in a building are by calling the university. There are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before this is done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the cardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never know what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that one plans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the actual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief should know when and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if none of these methods are successful, there is always section 8.0, but as a rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an odd hour. Don't forget the checklist provided at the end of this book. 2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some money to acquire many of the chemicals named here. Chemical Used In Available at _____________________________________________________________________________ acetic acid vinegar supermarkets (3-5%) _____________________________________________________________________________ alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores _____________________________________________________________________________ alcohol and iodine tincture of iodine (47%) (4%) _____________________________________________________________________________ alcohol,isopropyl rubbing alcohol supermarkets, pharmacy (70 or 90% depending on brand (Do NOT Drink!) _____________________________________________________________________________ aluminum (powdered) # bronzing powder ? painting supplies hardware store _____________________________________________________________________________ ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven _____________________________________________________________________________ ammonium hydroxide ammonia water photographic supplies _____________________________________________________________________________ ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores, nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores _____________________________________________________________________________ bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores, (propane, butane) lighter refills _____________________________________________________________________________ calcium carbide carbide lamps hardware store spieleologist supplies science labs (the gravel looking rocks inside) (smells like pig shit) _____________________________________________________________________________ carbon dioxide pressurizing fizzy drinks party supply stores (canisters) supermarkets _____________________________________________________________________________ cellulose (cotton) first aid drug/medical supply stores _____________________________________________________________________________ charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets/gardening stores vitamins pharmacy _____________________________________________________________________________ chlorine H.T.H. pool chlorine supermarkets (actually) calcium hypochlorite CaC10 _____________________________________________________________________________ citric acid citrus fruit supermarkets _____________________________________________________________________________ epsom salts vitamins pharmacy, supermarket _____________________________________________________________________________ fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores, _____________________________________________________________________________ glycerine ? pharmacies/drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores methenamine (camping) _____________________________________________________________________________ hydrogen peroxide creating bimbos pharmacy _____________________________________________________________________________ iodine & first aid drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ iron (III) oxide rust painting supplies (hematite) easy to find/make ____________________________________________________________________________ lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores - steal from school lab - hardware store - chemical supply house _____________________________________________________________________________ manganese dioxide (the black powder inside batteries) _____________________________________________________________________________ magnesium hydroxide milk of magnesia supermarkets, pharmacy _____________________________________________________________________________ mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets/hardware stores _____________________________________________________________________________ nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops plates photography stores _____________________________________________________________________________ nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores (bulbs) supermarkets _____________________________________________________________________________ potassium nitrate saltpetre pharmacy It is used as a diuretic for animals _____________________________________________________________________________ potassium permanganate water purification purification plants _____________________________________________________________________________ sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores _____________________________________________________________________________ sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store _____________________________________________________________________________ strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores, _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium bicarbonate baking soda supermarkets _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium carbonate soda, soda ash, sal soda, washing soda, or glassmaker's soda and is used as a water softener. _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium chlorate sodium chlorate weedkillers gardening store blowtorch (fuel ?) hardware store (needs preparation - see 2.41) _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores for cutting torches _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium hydroxide drain cleaners e.g. Draino supermarkets _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium bisulphate Sani-Flush supermarkets (75%) _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium chloride table salt supermarkets _____________________________________________________________________________ sucrose sugar supermarkets _____________________________________________________________________________ sulphur "Flowers of Sulphur" pharmacy used to repel ticks. _____________________________________________________________________________ notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming. + Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. @ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this. ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%. & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to. # You can either file down a bar of aluminum (slow), or (as i suggest) buy aluminum filings at your local hardware shop. (if you buy the bar use no less than 94% pure aluminum. it is called duralumin.) Chemical Equivalency list i.e. substitutes when in a fix. I wouldn't trust any of these too much.. acacia gum arabic acetic acid vinegar aluminum oxide alumia aluminum potassium sulfate alum aluminum sulfate alum ammonium carbonate hartshorn ammonium hydroxide ammonia ammonium nitrate salt peter ammonium oleate ammonia soap amylacetate banana oil barium sulfide black ash carbon carbonate chalk calcium hypochloride bleaching powder calcium oxide lime calcium sulfate plaster of paris carbonic acid seltzer carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide ammonium salt ethylene dichloride dutch fluid ferric oxide iron rust furfuraldehyde bran oil glucose corn syrup graphite pencil lead hydrochloric acid muriatic acid hydrogen peroxide peroxide lead acetate sugar of lead lead tetrooxide red lead magnesium silicate talc magnesium sulfate epsom salts methylsalicylate winter green oil naphthalene mothballs phenol carbolic acid potassium bicarbonate cream of tartar potassium chromium sulf. chrome alum potassium nitrate saltpeter sodium dioxide sand sodium bicarbonate baking soda sodium borate borax sodium carbonate washing soda sodium chloride salt sodium hydroxide lye sodium oxide sand sodium silicate water glass sodium sulfate glauber's salt sodium thiosulfate photographer's hypo sulfuric acid battery acid sucrose cane sugar zinc chloride tinner's fluid zinc sulfate white vitriol Keep this list handy at all times. If you can't seem to get one or more of the ingredients try another one. If you still can't, you can always buy sm all amounts from your school, or maybe from various chemical companies. When you do that, be sure to say as little as possible, if during the school year, and they ask, say it's for a experement for school. 2.21 Chemical Descriptions Sodium Azide - NaN 3 This white powder is very poisonous. It is also a bit unstable, so treat it gently. Lead Nitrate - Pb(NO ) 3 2 This contains poisonous lead and is very water soluble so your body will absorb it quickly, given the chance. The government has banned leaded paints and is phasing out leaded gasoline because the stuff slowly accumulates in your body and can screw up all sorts of important innards. If you are careless with Lead Nitrate you can do a few lifetimes' worth of damage in one afternoon. Ammonium Nitrate - NH NO 4 3 Commonly used as fertilizer, this stuff is somewhat dangerous in large quantities, particularly if it gets very hot. (Entire shiploads of this material have been known to go up all at once.) When heated gently, it decomposes into water and nitrous oxide (laughing gas). Farmers sometimes use it to blow up tree stumps by mixing it with fuel oil and setting the gunk off with a detonator. We'll have a very different use for it here. Potassium Nitrate - KNO 3 Also known as saltpeter, this is commercially used as a diuretic for animals. It also works as an oxidizing agent in various pyrotechnic mixtures. That is, when heated it provides the oxygen needed to make the rest of the mixture burn. Potassium Potassium Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen 2KNO ---> 2KNO + O 3 2 2 Potassium Chlorate - KClO 3 A much more spectacular oxidizing agent than Potassium Nitrate. It not only yields more oxygen than Potassium Nitrate, it does so more easily. Pyrotechnic mixtures containing this chemical will require much less of it, and yet burn more fiercely. Even percussion can readily set the mixtures off. This can be useful, but it sometimes makes the mixtures more sensitive than you'd like. Mixtures containing this chemical must be handled carefully. Potassium Chlorate is also poisonous. Potassium Potassium Chlorate Chloride Oxygen 2KClO ---> 2KCl + 3O 3 2 Aluminum Dust (and powder) Al Very finely divided aluminum. When put in a glass jar, it almost looks like a solid piece of grey metal. In this form it is flammable. Also, it can seriously damage your lungs if you inhale it. Be careful not to stir up any clouds of dust, and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use it near an open flame. An element used for brilliancy in the fine powder form. It can be purchased as a fine silvery or gray powder. All grades from technical to superpure (99.9%) can be used. It is dangerous to inhale the dust. The dust is also flammable, by itself. In coarser forms, like powder, it is less dangerous. Zinc Dust Zn Of all the forms of zinc available, only the dust form is in any way suitable. As a dust, it has the fineness of flour. Should be either of the technical or high purity grade. Avoid breathing the dust, which can cause lung damage. Used in certain star mixtures, and with sulfur, as a rocket fuel. Very finely divided zinc. Not quite as flammable as Aluminum Dust, but still worth handling carefully. Can also damage your lungs if inhaled. Lampblack This is very finely divided carbon, usually obtained as a soot from other manufacturing processes. It is much more effective in pyrotechnic mixtures than powdered charcoal. Tiny spots of this are almost unnoticeable, but they stick to your hands and smear incredibly far. If you're not very tidy you should expect to find black smears all over your face and hands after using this. This is another form of the element carbon. It is a very finely powdered black dust (soot, actually) resulting from the burning of crude oils. It is used for special effects in fireworks. Sulfur A yellow powder used as a reducing agent in many pyrotechnic mixtures. Buy this in the finely powdered form. You can also get it in hard lumps, but these will just waste extra time as you have to grind them yourself. Potassium Permanganate An oxidizing agent that's somewhat less vigorous than others mentioned here. Not usually used in pyrotechnic mixtures because it's more expensive and less effective than some of the alternatives. There are a few cases when it's just the right thing. Don't let this accidentally come in contact with glycerine. If such an accident happens, the resulting mess should be immediately wiped up with wet paper towels and buried or flushed down a toilet. It should NOT be thrown away in a dry waste receptacle!!! Gum Arabic A white powder which is mixed with water to make a glue like substance. Useful for coating various mixtures or binding them together into a solid mass. Sodium Peroxide A very strange and dangerous oxidizer. Don't let it get wet and don't let it touch your skin. Glycerine A thick liquid, chemically similar to rubbing alcohol. Though harder to get burning, it will burn in the right circumstances. Fairly safe stuff. Iodine Crystals Pure Iodine is a steel grey solid, which is poisonous and which produses poisonous vapors when heated. Smells similar to the chlorine used in bleaches and swimming pools. If you accidentally should drop some on a hot surface and notice the odor, you should leave the area. Antimony Sulfide Sb S 2 3 Also known as "Black" Antimony Sulfide. (There is also a "Red" form, which is useless to us.) This is used to sharpen the report of firecrackers, salutes, etc, or to add color to a fire. The technical, black, powder is suitable. Avoid contact with the skin. Dermatitis or worse will be the result. Barium Chlorate Ba(ClO ) * H O 3 2 2 Available as a white powder. It is poisonous, as are all Barium salts. It is used both as an oxidizer and color imparter. It is as powerful as Potassium Chlorate and should be handled with the same care. Melting point is 414 degrees. Barium Nitrate Ba(NO ) 3 2 Poisonous. Used as an oxidizer and colorizer. The uses and precautions are the same as with a mixture containing Potassium Nitrate. Dextrine This can be purchased as a white or yellow powder. It is a good cheap glue for binding cases and stars in fireworks. Lead Chloride PbCl 3 Available as a white, crystalline, poisonous powder, which melts at 501 degrees. As with all lead salts, it is not only poisonous, but the poison accumulates in the body, so a lot of small, otherwise harmless doses can be as bad as one large dose. Mercurous Chloride HgCl Also known as calomel or Mercury Monochloride. This powder will brighten an otherwise dull colored mixture. Sometimes it is replaced by Hexachlorobenzene for the same purpose. This is non poisonous ONLY if it is 100% pure. Never confuse this chemical with Mercuric Chloride, which is poisonous in any purity. Potassium Chlorate KClO 3 This, perhaps, is the most widely used chemical in fireworks. Before it was known, mixtures were never spectacular in performance. It opened the door to what fireworks are today. It is a poisonous, white powder that is used as an oxidizer. Never ram or strike a mixture containing Potassium Chlorate. Do not store mixtures containing this chemical for any length of time, as they may explode spontaneously. Potassium Dichromate K Cr O 2 2 7 Also known as Potassium Bichromate. The commercial grade is used in fireworks and matches. The bright orange crystals are poisonous. Potassium Perchlorate KClO 4 Much more stable than its chlorate brother, this chemical is a white or slightly pink powder. It can often substitute for Potassium Chlorate to make the mixture safer. It will not yield its oxygen as easily, but to make up for this, it gives off more oxygen. It is also poisonous. Red Gum Rosin similar to shellac and can often replace it in many fireworks formulas. Red Gum is obtained from barks of trees. Sodium Oxalate Na C O 2 2 4 Used in making yellow fires. Available as a fine dust, which you should avoid breathing. Strontium Carbonate SrCO 3 Known in the natural state as Strontianite, this chemical is used for adding a red color to fires. It comes as a white powder, in a pure, technical, or natural state. Strontium Nitrate Sr(NO ) 3 2 By far the most common chemical used to produce red in flares, stars and fires. Available in the technical grade as a white powder. It does double duty as an oxidizer, but has a disadvantage in that it will absorb some water from the air. Strontium Sulfate SrSO 4 Since this chemical does not absorb water as readily as the nitrate, it is often used when the powder is to be stored. In its natural state it is known as Celestine, which is comparable to the technical grade used in fireworks. Antimony Sulfide Sb S 2 3 Also known as "Black" Antimony Sulfide. (There is also a "Red" form, which is useless to us.) This is used to sharpen the report of firecrackers, salutes, etc, or to add color to a fire. The technical, black, powder is suitable. Avoid contact with the skin. Dermatitis or worse will be the result. Barium Chlorate Ba(ClO ) * H O 3 2 2 Available as a white powder. It is poisonous, as are all Barium salts. It is used both as an oxidizer and color imparter. It is as powerful as Potassium Chlorate and should be handled with the same care. Melting point is 414 degrees. Barium Nitrate Ba(NO ) 3 2 Poisonous. Used as an oxidizer and colorizer. The uses and precautions are the same as with a mixture containing Potassium Nitrate. Charcoal C A form of the element carbon. Used in fireworks and explosives as a reducing agent. It can be purchased as a dust on up to a coarse powder. Use dust form, unless otherwise specified. The softwood variety is best, and it should be black, not brown. Copper Acetoarsenite (CuO) As O Cu(C H O ) 3 2 3 2 3 2 2 The popular name for this is Paris Green. It is also called King's Green or Vienna Green. It has been used as an insecticide, and is available as a technical grade, poisonous, emerald green powder. It is used in fireworks to add color. Careful with this stuff. It contains arsenic. Copper Chloride CuCl 2 A color imparter. As with all copper salts, this is poisonous. Copper Sulfate CuSO *5H O 4 2 Known as Blue Vitriol, this poisonous compound is available as blue crystals or blue powder. Can be purchased in some drugstores and some agricultural supply stores. Used as a colorizer. Lampblack C This is another form of the element carbon. It is a very finely powdered black dust (soot, actually) resulting from the burning of crude oils. It is used for special effects in fireworks. Potassium Chlorate KClO 3 This, perhaps, is the most widely used chemical in fireworks. Before it was known, mixtures were never spectacular in performance. It opened the door to what fireworks are today. It is a poisonous, white powder that is used as an oxidizer. Never ram or strike a mixture containing Potassium Chlorate. Do not store mixtures containing this chemical for any length of time, as they may explode spontaneously. Potassium Dichromate K Cr O 2 2 7 Also known as Potassium Bichromate. The commercial grade is used in fireworks and matches. The bright orange crystals are poisonous. Potassium Nitrate KNO 3 Commonly called Saltpeter. This chemical is an oxidizer which decomposes at 400 degrees. It is well known as a component of gunpowder and is also used in other firework pieces. Available as a white powder. Shellac Powder An organic rosin made from the secretions of insects which live in India. The exact effect it produces in fireworks is not obtainable from other gums. The common mixture of shellac and alcohol sold in hardware stores should be avoided. Purchase the powdered variety, which is orange in color. Strontium Carbonate SrCO 3 Known in the natural state as Strontianite, this chemical is used for adding a red color to fires. It comes as a white powder, in a pure, technical, or natural state. Strontium Nitrate Sr(NO ) 3 2 By far the most common chemical used to produce red in flares, stars and fires. Available in the technical grade as a white powder. It does double duty as an oxidizer, but has a disadvantage in that it will absorb some water from the air. Strontium Sulfate SrSO 4 Since this chemical does not absorb water as readily as the nitrate, it is often used when the powder is to be stored. In its natural state it is known as Celestine, which is comparable to the technical grade used in fireworks. Sulfur S A yellow element that acts as a reducing agent. It burns at 250 degrees, giving off choking fumes. Purchase the yellow, finely powdered form only. Other forms are useless without a lot of extra and otherwise unnecessary effort to powder it. 2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I know you would like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so here is how to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you how Dupont does it or how the ancient Chinese did it but not how you can do it with the resources and materials available to you. Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are almost useless because they are just outlines written with the understanding that an instructor is going to fill in the blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together to make something go "boom". You can find what you need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting point to remember is that it is much easier to make a big explosion than a small one. It is very difficult for a home experimenter to make a firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is easy. 2.31 Nitric Acid (HNO3) - Chemical of the Month, Digital Free Press, Issue 1, No. 4 Additional Information Supplied by Anesthesia Tenth Highest volume industrial chemical produced in the United States. AKA: Aquas fortis, hydrogen nitrate, azotic acid, engraver's acid. Description: Transparent, colorless or yellowish, fuming liquid. Uses: Manufacture of Ammonium Nitrate fertilizer, dyes, drugs, lacquers, cellulose nitrate, nitrate salts, rubber chemicals and urethanes, ore flotation, metallurgy, photoengraving, etching steel, reprocessing spent nuclear fuel. Hazards: Highly toxic; extremely corrosive to body tissue; will cause immediate and severe burns; will cause extensive damage to eyes and respiratory system. Keep cool and dry. There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!! Materials: Equipment: ───────── ───────── sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source potassium nitrate retort distilled water ice bath concentrated sulfuric acid stirring rod collecting flask with stopper 1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort. 2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve, carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does. 3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the collecting flask in the ice bath. 4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away from it. Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar. 2.32 SULFURIC ACID Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster than clean motor oil. Or, go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should only cost about 5 dollars. What you will get is about a gallon of dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container. The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal container. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid until white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb moisture from the air and become diluted. 2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the remaining water. 2.331 How to Make Ammonium Nitrate From: The Poor Man's James Bond by Kurt Saxon Plagerized by: THE REFLEX (Omnipotent, Inc.) Disclaimer: I, THE REFLEX, will accept full responsibility for any damages caused by information obtained from this text-file. As a matter of fact, I'll let you sue me and I'll pay. All you have to do is tell your lawyer, "It's all THE REFLEX's fault." I'll see you when you get out of the institution. Some Militants who don't have much dynamite use ammonium nitrate. This can be bought by anyone at $3.75 for and 80 pound bag. It is fertilizer. Ammonium nitrate explodes at rates up to 14,000 feet per second. It is roughly compared to dynamite having 60% nitro. The fertilizer grade Militants use is mixed with motor oil at the ratio of one pint of oil to 8-1/2 pounds of ammonium nitrate. This has to be detonated with a stick of gelatin dynamite [I didn't say all was easy. Try to find another file about that crap.]. Purified ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a number six dynamite cap. The pure stuff can be bought at chemical supply houses or the fertilizer grade can be purified with distilled wood alcohol. Put several pounds of fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate in a pan. Pour in enough wood alcohol (methanol) to cover the fertilizer. Then stir it until a lot of it has dissolved. Next, let it set for a few minutes to allow the impurities to settle to the bottom along with the undissolved ammonium nitrate. Another pan is set on some pieces of dry ice for the next step. Dry ice can be found in the business section of the phone book under "Dry Ice." Locker companies will sell it to anyone, cheaply and in small amounts. The dissolved ammonium nitrate is poured into the cold pan. This is done carefully so as to leave the impurities and undissolved ammonium nitrate behind. The dry ice causes the purified ammonium nitrate to precipitate out of the solution in crystals. When no more crystals are formed they are removed from the alcohol. The alcohol is then poured back into the other pan and stirred to dissolve any ammonium nitrate left undissolved. After setting a few minutes the solution is again poured off the dregs and the dregs are thrown away. When the last batch of crystals is removed, the alcohol can be stored and reused. The dry ice is simply frozen carbon dioxide and its fumes are harmless unless they are enough to replace the air. Don't handle the dry ice with your bare hands [unless you are into pulling your skin off to the bone] as its cold will cause blisters. In order for pure ammonium nitrate to be detonated by a dynamite cap, it must be very dry. Spread it out under a heat lamp ir in thte sun. When completely dry, store it in tightly closed plastic bags. 2.34 PREPARATION OF CHARCOAL Buy a bag of charcoal briquettes at a grocery store. Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with hammer. Dump the result into the blender, grind, then strain through a tea strainer. 2.35 GENERATING CHLORINE GAS Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'Do NOT mix with chlorine bleach', and visa-versa? That's because if you mix Ammonia water with Ajax or the like, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and put Ajax in the bottom, then pour some Ammonia down into the bottle. Since chlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use large amounts of either Ajax or Ammonia (DON'T!). 2.36 SULPHUR Some drug stores sell sulfur under the name 'Flowers of Sulfur'. Alternately, Nitrate of Soda can be used. It will be in the form of prills (little round beads). Bake it in an oven at 250 degrees for 10-15 minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or two into a blender and switch it on. It will do a beautiful job of reducing it to powder. 2.37 GENERATING OXYGEN GAS Get some Hydrogen Peroxide (from a drug store) and Manganese Dioxide (from a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off Oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off. Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the bottle. The Oxygen will make it burst into flame. Experiment with it. The oxygen will allow things to burn better... 2.38 GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS acid (try vinegar) reactive metal (e.g. zinc, aluminium) OR: 2 test tubes 2 carbon electrodes (from battery) 6-12 Volt battery (or electric train transformer) table salt (or sulphuric acid) large bowl wire To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react with that acid. This is basic high school stuff. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter than air... Light a small amount and it burns with a small *POP*. Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. This involves seperating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric current. To do this, you Need a 6-12 volt battery (an electric train transformer works well), two test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking 6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some wire going down to the electrodes. This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the oxygen which will undoubtedly corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon electrodes... (The table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to form sodium hydroxide). Therefore, if you can get your hands on some sulfuric acid, use it instead. It will not affect the reaction other than making the water conduct electricity. 2.39 GENERATING HEMATITE (IRON OXIDE) iron rod or nail wire dc voltage supply (e.g. electric train transformer) glass jar or bowl table salt The first step in making thermite is to make hematite. In layman's terms, hematite is iron oxide (rust). Here is good method of making large quantities of rust. You will electrolise a metal rod, such as a common nail. You will need a source of DC power as well. An electric train transformer is perfect. Attach the rod to the positive wire. Then place the rod and the negative wire in opposite sides of a glass jar filled with water. Put a little salt in the water, just enough to make it conduct well (a teaspoon). Make sure that the wires are not touching the water or they will react and not the iron (e.g. if the wires are copper they will corrode first). Let the setup sit overnight. In the morning, here will be a dark red crud in the jar. filter all the crud out of the water or just fish it out with a spoon. Now you will need to dry it out. Heat it in an iron pot until it all turns a nice light red. 2.40 Making Picric Acid To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. >Some info on picric acid: > >| Picric acid is, in fact, _very_ stable. And it's perfectly safe >| to handle, at least concerning it's explosive properties. >| (It is moderately poisonous). > >My understanding goes like this (yes, I have handled the stuff): >As long as the crystals contain water, it is safe. Without the water, >the stuff is extremely shock-sensitive. Not entirely true. The point is that being wet simply keeps any already-formed salts in solution, where they aren't much harm; or wet (if they're not water-soluble) where they are dispersed and relatively less dangerous. So in any case, keep it wet. 2.41 Preparation of Sodium Chlorate The Sodium Chlorate in the weedkiller is unlikely to be more than about 65% pure - this is not a problem if you're not worried about how quickly it will burn as fuse paper but if you are using the fuses in a lot of wind or are going to through them as part of a firecracker you will have to concentrate the Sodium Chlorate and remove impurities as much as possible beforehand as follows: Make a saturated solution of the weedkiller (ie.dissolve as much of it as you can in very hot water) then filter off any remaining crystals. Then heat the solution very hot in a dish - then when crystals start forming around the rim heat more gently and then leave to cool - after some time u will have crystals with gunge all over them - wash them and filter off any rubbish. Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate, and in most cases can be a substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00. 2.43 Iodine Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To seperate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen triiodide.